Alkanet (Alkanna tinctoria), also known as dyer’s alkanet, dyer’s bugloss, orchanet, Spanish bugloss, and Languedoc bugloss,

Alkanet is a herb in the borage family whose roots yield beautiful shades of purple and red. It grows wild across the Mediterranean and has been used for centuries as both a dye and a food colourant.

Alkanet’s colourant is not water-soluble, so the roots or powder must be soaked in alcohol (rubbing alcohol or vodka) for a few days to release their deep hues.

Cultural Notes

Beyond dyeing, alkanet holds a place in culinary tradition. In India, under the name ratan jot, it lends its red colour to the famous Kashmiri curry rogan josh. 

Active Dye Compounds Naphthoquinones (primarily alkannin and shikonin)

CI Number Natural Red 20 (CI 75530)

Shading Tips

On fibres (with mordant):

• Protein fibres: mordant with 15% alum
• Cellulose fibres: mordant with aluminium acetate
• Soak textiles in alcohol-extracted alkanet dye, then heat gently (no higher than 60°C)
• Produces smoky purples to deep reds depending on mordant and fibre

On soap:

• Colour varies with pH, base oils, and whether the soap gels
• Infuse 1 tbsp powdered alkanet into 125 g oil for 1–2 weeks before using in soapmaking