The newly released 2008 Extra Brut Vintage from Billecart-Salmon is still predictably quite youthfully reticent, opening in the glass with a lively bouquet of citrus oil, crisp white peach, white flowers, cardamon and nutmeg. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, chiseled and precise, with a tight-knit core, lovely underlying chalky extract and a tensile finish. This is a vintage Billecart with more-than-usual upside, and it will be worth following for two decades in a cold cellar.